A Week On The Wrist

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In terms of complications, I can think of none that I more closely identify with Grand Seiko than the GMT. It is offered across the full suite of Grand Seiko movement types – from Hi-Beat, to regular beat, to Spring Drive, and even high-end quartz. Though there are exceptions, for the most part, the Grand Seiko GMT has occupied a territory that I would consider to be that of a dress watch, or at least a dressy-leaning watch. Take, for example, my own 30-meter-water-resistant SBGM221, which I routinely wear with a suit and, in fact, even wore to my wedding. It's a hugely versatile watch, and I wear it often in the fall, winter, and spring, but I would hesitate to call it a good summer watch. What we have to introduce today are strong candidates for the ultimate Grand Seiko summer watch (that aren't divers, of course).

The new Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, which join the company's Sport Collection, are as robust as any Hi-Beat GMTs I have seen. The SBGJ237 will be available in August, and the SBGJ239 is a boutique/salon-only piece that will be available starting in July. They come with all of the features that I'd expect to see in a Grand Seiko GMT, but with add-ons for those who want to be a bit more active. Foremost among them are their water resistance, which stretches to 20 bar (or about 200 meters), and a sapphire crystal bezel, which protects a luminous 24-hour scale. In the evening hours, from about 17:30 to 6:30, the numerals themselves light up in Seiko's proprietary Lumibrite. In the daytime hours, it's the white background that lights up. 

It's worth pointing out that Grand Seiko has used Lumibrite on a GMT bezel before, for example in the SBGE248 released last year. Because both of these new watches use a Hi-Beat movement (9S86) with quick-setting for the local hour and a rotating 24-hour bezel, they can quickly tell the time in a total of three time zones. There is the local time, there is the time told with the 24-hour hand via the stationary 24-hour track on the flange, and there is the time that can be calculated by rotating the blue and white (or in the case of the SBGJ239, black and white) outer bezel in one-hour increments and reading from the 24-hour hand.

I think that SBGJ237, in particular, is among the best looking Grand Seiko releases in recent memory, and it backs up its good looks with those useful features that recommend it as a killer summer watch. The blue and white color combo works extremely well, and the water resistance is more than enough for a watch that you probably won't be deep diving with, but won't stop you from jumping into the pool. And, of course, it comes on a bracelet as opposed to an alligator strap.

There are just a couple of aspects of the design that I think might prove polarizing in some quarters. The main one is the size: This is a big case at 44.2mm wide by 14.4mm thick, and pulling it off will likely mean that potential customers will need burly wrists. Granted, these are billed as highly water resistant sport watches, so those extra millimeters aren't exactly coming out nowhere. The other is the slightly asymmetrical look of the bezel. I put this latter issue down to the fact that the bezel is luminous, which most likely precluded bisecting the 6 and 18 hour numerals, as you might see on a Rolex GMT-Master, for example. This effect is mirrored on the second 24-hour scale on the flange. It's hardly a dealbreaker in my book, but I think it's worth pointing out. The stationary 24-hour scale on the flange is a fantastic touch that really makes the second and third time zones much easier to read.

Brand: Grand Seiko Model: SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 (boutique / salon only) Reference Number: SBGJ237 & SBGJ239

Diameter: 44.2mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: SBGJ237: blue; SBGJ239: green Indexes: Applied with lume Lume: Yes, on hands, indexes, and bezel Water Resistance: 20 bar / 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: SBGJ237: stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp; SBGJ239: alligator leather

Caliber: 9S86 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT with third time zone via rotating 24-hour bezel Power Reserve: Approximately 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 36,000 vph Jewels: 37 Chronometer Certified: +5 to -3 seconds per day when static

 Price: SBGJ237: $6,800; SBGJ239: $6,600 Availability: SBGJ237: August 2020; SBGJ239: July

For more on the SBGJ237, click here, and on the SBGJ239, click here.

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